If there is no leakage, the paint should be fine to use and store.

For a true representation of the colour, we would recommend applying at least two coats. Please ensure you stir the paint to mix the colour and apply this to a piece of card or paper and allow this to fully dry if you want to test it prior to application.

Getting the basics right is half the battle

There are many and numerous guides online and in any bookstore as to how best carry out painting around the house. Here we can break down the basics so you can get started.

Household Painting Hints and Tips

• Sand, spackle and prime the room as appropriate.
• Have all the necessary tools in hand (brush, drip tray, et al) before you start.
• Stir the paint before applying – don’t paint straight from the can.
• Make sure you’re using the type of paint that’s right for the room and the job.
• Keep a wet edge, and always paint from dry to wet; paint along the trim, ceilings and corners, and then apply the remainder via a roller once the former has dried.
• Long, continuous strokes are best for paint application.
• Let the paint dry between coats, and applying more than one is a good idea.

Avoid applying thick coats of paint or applying too much thinner/solvent which can affect the consistency of the remaining paint. If in doubt, give us a call 03 5176 1442

For best results, we always recommended following the product instructions to make sure you have prepared the surface appropriately. Usually sanding, cleaning or/and primer is required before painting. If in doubt give us a call on 03 5176 1442

As some colours require a lot of tint, this can cause the paint to become almost translucent, to prevent this we would recommend applying an undercoat first.

Water trapped under the paint can emerge and cause blistering. To prevent this, we recommend ensuring the surface is completely dry before applying paint.

When pigments have been disturbed in this way, wait until the paint is completely dry. Then reapply paint avoiding touching the wet film.

Proper preparation is the key

Whilst painting a boat is not difficult, prior preparation will make all the difference for a professional-looking marine painting application.

Marine Painting

• First, wash and de-wax the surface; apply the solvent, clean it off, and then wash the surface down with a detergent.
• Fill any dents and gouges.
• Sand and prime (keeping in mind the make of the boat, whether it is wood or fiberglass.
• Mask the area to be painted.
• Apply the coats needed. This may be a two-person job; one to apply the paint with a roller, another to smooth the application with a brush – this is known as ‘rolling and tipping’. Sanding and washing will need to be carried out between each coating.

Industrial applications

• Industrial painting has its own set of prerequisites before a job can be carried out.
• The substrate (the surface to be painted) must be cleaned, so that the paint can be properly applied for correct adhesion.
• The correct solvent must be used to thin the paint before application.
• Even the type of spray gun must be taken into consideration before the process can begin.

Remember Occupational Health and Safety at all times

Given the numerous situations in which industrial painting takes place, other factors such as flammability and high temperatures within an industrial environment need to be taken into account before application.

If the surface is too small because it has not been keyed, this can cause flaking.

It usually helps to visualise how the finished product will look upon completion. With that in mind, examine the colour stock samples provided and see which colour combinations work best for you. Avoid colours that clash with each other if possible.

Fillers are absorbent and have a different porosity than the substrate, which can cause variations in colour. Therefore, fillers should be applied as early as possible in the process to avoid variations in gloss, sheen or colour. All purpose fillers contain cement and have a high alkali content. Interior grade fillers are based on plaster rather than cement and do not cause changes in colour. If the problem is extensive you may need to prime the whole surface to ensure an even finish.

Stains can occur when the water in the emulsion activates impurities in a wall.

This can happen if incompatible paints have been applied and the top layer breaks up due to it expanding at a different rate than the one below.

It will hold the paint better and minimize brush marks created when applying coats.

Yes, our salespeople are fully trained and they are ex-spray painters with years of industry experience so they are able to explain any spraying techniques to achieve a desired texture for any type of surfaces.

Yes, we provide full tutorials about how to prime, how to use, how to spray, and more. Please contact us by phone 03 5176 1442 or visit our warehouse at 29 Stratton Drive, Traralgon East 3844 Victoria for more information.

The walls you plan to paint on should be clean and dry at a bare minimum.

• If the wall hasn’t been painted before, a primer will be needed before painting takes place.
• If it has been painted previously, then the surface will need to be cleaned with soap and water, then rinsed.
• Scrubbing, patching and sanding may have to be applied as required, depending on the state of the painting surface.

Care should be taken to avoid spillages on glass, cement, brickwork, carpets, clothing etc. If spilled, solvent-borne coatings should be removed immediately while wet using Mineral turpentine. Water-borne coatings should be removed using a warm detergent solution. Once dry, the coatings will be very difficult to remove without damage to the surface.

Some old paint coatings may contain lead which is poisonous to humans and before removing or preparing existing paint coatings it is important to determine whether the paint concerned contains lead. Remove all such coating materials in accordance with the appropriate legislation. Contact us for more information if needed.

If you apply a water-based product in cold conditions typical in winter in Gippsland (i.e. below 10C), loss of adhesion can occur and the coating may simply wash off when it rains. To rectify, thoroughly clean down the surfaces to remove all dirt, grease and surface contaminants. Scrape back all areas of poorly adhering or defective coatings to a firm edge and rub down to “feather” broken edges. Dust off and re-apply coating.

Foam rollers should not be used with water based paints. If you already have this problem there are two solutions. 1: Line with lining paper and repaint or 2: Rub down smooth and repaint

Yes, we can do an equivalent match on most colours.

This is usually caused by uneven paint application on broad, flat surfaces, or by over-applying on mouldings or rough-contoured surfaces. Also, failing to join up “wet edges” before they have set can cause excessive film thickness, resulting in sagging and running. When the paint film is thoroughly dry, rub down the sags/runs using wet and dry abrasive paper (or waterproof silicon carbide) together with warm water and detergent. To prevent sags/runs when painting broad, flat areas, work systematically and cross-brush each section into the next; finally using vertical strokes to gently lay off along the length of the surface.

This is where there is the appearance of dull or shiny blotches on the painted surface. It occurs due to a couple of main reasons: inadequate priming of surfaces that are porous and lack of correct painting techniques such as overlapping and not maintaining a good wet edge.

Powdery and chalky surfaces are quite common in older properties that have been painted with distemper or white wash. You should completely remove these coatings by washing with warm water and a detergent solution. Rinse with clean water and change the water regularly. If the surface still remains slightly chalky, seal with an appropriate sealant prior to finishing.

Blistering can occur on plaster if you overcoat solvent-based paints such as gloss or eggshell with a conventional emulsion in an area that suffers from high levels of condensation. To resolve the problem, scrape back the blistered paint until you have a firm edge, feather lightly with abrasive paper and dust off. Now spot, prime and bring forward any bare areas. Finally, repaint the surface using a thinned first coat of water-based eggshell followed by one or two full coats.

You’re using the wrong type of roller. For instance, if you use a sponge roller to apply water-based paints, air is injected into the wet paint film and the air bubbles burst, forming craters on the surface which dry unevenly. As a rule of thumb, use short pile rollers for flat surfaces, medium pile rollers for medium textures and long pile rollers for textured surfaces. After rolling, some paints, particularly solvent-based gloss, may need to be “layed-off” with a brush to eliminate foaming. To repair a foamy surface, thoroughly clean it down to remove all dirt, grease and surface contaminants. Rub down the surfaces with wet and dry abrasion and water or a suitable solvent. Finally, rinse down and allow to dry thoroughly before repainting. If this is impractical, line the walls before repainting.

“Hot” or “hungry” surfaces should be primed overall with very thin finishing coats of emulsion or Primer/Sealer prior to painting.

This is often caused by surface contamination such as wax. Unfortunately there’s only one thing for it. Completely remove all existing material and carefully clean down the surfaces. Allow to dry, then reapply coating.

Past water leaks or burst water pipes can cause water staining. Before repainting, ensure that the leak has stopped and the surface is thoroughly dry, then spot prime the affected area with a good primer. Heavy deposits of tar staining from cigarette smoke or soot staining from open fires are common causes of staining, especially on water-based emulsion paints. To prepare, wash the surface thoroughly with detergent solution and rinse frequently with clean water. Allow to dry, then prime. Conventional solvent-based finishes such as gloss can discolour with age, particularly in areas sheltered from natural daylight, this is known as yellowing. Prior to repainting, wash the surface with a detergent solution, rinse with clean water and allow to dry. It may be more advisable to use a water-based coating for a low light area.

This can be caused by dust and dirt in the air settling on the paint surface; by using a dirty paint brush, or by stirring skin into the paint. In either case, let the paint dry and harden, then rub down using wet and dry abrasive paper and warm water with a bit of detergent. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and allow it to dry before repainting. Use only good quality paint brushes and wash out with a little turpentine, making sure the brush is completely dry before starting work. Avoid stirring skin into the paint by straining before use.

Mould grows in conditions of high humidity, poor ventilation and on surfaces with a high moisture content. Condensation or poor air circulation is the main culprit in most cases. Mould can be very destructive to paint coatings and needs to be eradicated before applying paint. Treat affected areas with a fungicidal wash or similar. Leave for 24 hours, wash down to remove residues and allow to dry thoroughly. If necessary, repeat the treatment. Improving the ventilation and the use of mould inhibiting paints will reduce further contamination.

Saponification occurs when oil-based paints are softened and liquefied by the alkali in plaster when moisture is present. Materials containing cement or lime are strongly alkaline; gypsum plasters are usually not, but can become alkaline if gauged with lime or if it is brought forward from the backing during the drying phase. For these reasons, never use oil (solvent) based paints on plaster or masonry surfaces until they are completely dry in depth, then prime the surfaces with a good primer. Where saponification has occurred, completely remove the defective coating, wash down the surface and rinse with clean water. Allow to dry then prime.

It is quite normal for small cracks to appear in plaster on interior walls and ceilings, either through drying out in new homes or movement of the building in older homes. Simply cut out the cracks, dust off and fill with a suitable interior filler. Allow to dry, then rub down smooth and dust off to create a clean, smooth surface for decorating. To ensure even porosity, spot prime with a thinned coat of your finish.

If walls are damp, the source of the dampness needs to be found, e.g. broken rainwater pipes or defective pointing in brickwork. Walls must be dry before attempting any painting.

You don’t need a primer at all. After a thorough clean, apply one coat of a solvent-based product, thinned 10 per cent turpentine, followed by two full coats.

Pinholing in plaster surfaces is normally due to overpainting a very porous surface (either the plaster or a filler) without adequately thinning the priming coat. To remedy, repaint with two thinned coats.

It has most likely been caused by applying a thick, heavy coat of un-thinned paint to a textured or embossed surface. ‘Mud cracking’ can also be caused when the air temperature drops rapidly after applying a water-based product, or when over coating an emulsion without leaving sufficient drying time. The solution? Applying one or two thin coats will sometimes fill the cracks. Otherwise the best solution is to strip the surface, repaper and paint.

Like flaking, peeling results from paint losing its adhesion properties. Often caused by applying thick coatings to poorly prepared surfaces, e.g. unthinned emulsion onto distemper. The cure is to thoroughly scrape back all areas of poorly adhering or defective coatings to a firm edge. Finally, rub down to “feather” broken edges, dust off and repaint.

Yes, there is a very effective treatment for these types of vegetable growths, which are most likely to occur in damp conditions or on surfaces with a high moisture content. Before treating, first repair the source of any leaks and check for blocked air bricks and defective or missing DPC (damp proof course). Allow to thoroughly dry then treat affected areas with a good fungicidal wash. Leave for 24 hours, wash down to remove residues and allow to dry thoroughly before applying coating. Isolated algae patches on a building exterior may indicate structural defects and should be investigated by a reputable builder and/or building surveyor.

Yes, however, this is not an easy task. The preferred method would be to use a chemical stripper to soften the finish, remove with a metal scraper, followed by thorough sanding. N.B. Naked flames (blow torch/lamp) are not recommended if a wood stain is to be used, as the timber surface can become charred. Furthermore, they can be a serious fire risk, and their use should be avoided.

No. Failing to completely remove wood that has been exposed to weather and sunlight is a common cause of paint failure. Use a sander or scraper to remove the top surface layer of the grey wood, making sure that the surface is cleaned back to new sound wood. Prime all bare wood with a good primer or basecoat before repainting.

Common causes of bleeding from the surface below include old wallcoverings, bituminous paint and creosoted surfaces, so these should be completely removed before painting. If this is not possible apply one or, in severe cases, two coats of an appropriate primer. New creosote or bituminous materials ideally need to be aged for at least 12 months before painting.

Simply run a knife blade across the grain. This will only make a small indentation on sound timber, but on rotten timber the blade will sink in. The only cure is to cut out all the rotten wood and replace it with sound timber.

There are different solutions for each of these problems.

1. Staining caused by rust from old nails should be rubbed down to remove the rust, then prime any exposed metal with a good metal primer before painting.
2. Resin bleeding from knots in wood should first be removed with turpentine. Then seal the knots with two coats of a suitable knotting solution and repaint.
3. All solvent-based paints such as gloss will discolour or yellow with age. To treat, wash the surface thoroughly with detergent solution, rinse with clean water and allow to dry before repainting.
4. If the wood appears to be dirty, particularly around glazing rebates, it may be affected by fungal growth. Clean the surface thoroughly and treat with domestic bleach, or a fungicidal wash, before painting.

A new coat of paint can sometimes soften the previous coat and cause wrinkling or “lifting”. This can be the result of using a different type of new coating over the existing paint, or by applying a second coat before the first coat is fully dried. If paint is still soft, scrape off, wash with Mineral turpentine and recoat to correct film thickness. Allow to thoroughly dry (this may take a few weeks). Rub down until smooth and recoat. Totally strip back to a clean surface and repaint.

Powdery or chalky old paintwork is caused by the paint film wearing away due to exposure to weather. This natural erosion of the paint coating can often be removed by thoroughly washing down prior to repainting. If washing doesn’t remove a chalky surface, seal with an appropriate primer before painting, or in severe cases remove the chalky surface entirely.

Graffiti is a very difficult problem to deal with. Normal decorative paints are not suitable for painting over graffiti as many felt marker inks and aerosol spray paints tend to bleed through conventional coatings. Take great care when attempting to remove graffiti from unpainted surfaces, especially when the substrate is porous. Talk to us about Anti Graffiti products that are specially designed for regular washing and help to ease the removal of the graffiti.

Coarse or heavy brush marks are most likely caused either by painting onto a very porous surface, or applying paint in warm conditions. To get rid of the marks, first clean down the surfaces to remove all dirt, grease and surface contaminants. Rub down using water or a suitable solvent. Finally, rinse down and allow to dry thoroughly before applying a new coat of paint.

This is commonly caused by moisture beneath the paint film and by paint applied over grey denatured wood, dirt, oil, grease, polish and other surface contamination. Resin and resin gases from knots can also cause blistering, particularly where dark colours are used on external south facing surfaces. Wood movement, such as in joints in window frames, can lead to splits in the paint, allowing moisture to penetrate the wood and cause flaking. To prepare, scrape back areas of flaking or blistering paint to a firm edge and rub down to feather edges using an abrasive paper. If the problem is extensive, strip completely using a hot air gun or chemical paint remover. Clean out open joints with a stripping knife and dusting brush. Make good all open joints and surface imperfections.Treat knots and resinous streaks with one or two coats of a suitable Knotting Solution before priming. When finishing with water-based gloss or eggshell, use bleached white knotting, as brown shellac knotting may bleed through and cause discolouration.

This is caused either by different levels of porosity in the substrate or by uneven application. Usually, two thinned coats will rectify the problem. Rub down with a suitable abrasive, dust off and apply coating.

Adhesion failure on metal substrates, resulting in blistering, flaking/delamination and corrosion, is usually due either to surface contamination or poor surface preparation. Among the most common types of surface contamination are grease on new galvanised surfaces and wax residue resulting from the use of chemical paint strippers, which should be cleaned with an emulsifying Oil and Grease Remover. Dust and general debris should always be vacuumed away before painting. In terms of surface preparation, the failure to remove mill scale from hot rolled mild steel prior to painting can lead to serious problems months or even years later. Similarly, painting over rust can result in the paint film flaking or the rust breaking through the paint film.

Blisters in any coating form as the result of isolated areas of poor/insufficient adhesion of the coating to the surface beneath. This phenomenon occurs especially in warm and sunny weather, and is often related to the expansion of air in the wood pores, the gassing of gums or resin, or the evaporation of trapped moisture, which pushes the coating film away, shortly after application.

The most common causes are moisture beneath the paint film and paint applied over dirt, oil, grease or onto a poorly prepared, powdery surface. Water-based coatings may blister if applied over surfaces previously painted with solvent-based paints or primed with a solvent-based stabilising primer that isn’t thinned prior to application. To remedy the problem, scrape back all poorly adherent coating to a firm edge and abrade shiny surfaces with abrasive paper.

These appear as a result of salts crystallising in materials such as bricks and plaster or render. The fluffy deposits can be removed by dry brushing, repeated every few days until the deposits disappear. Harder deposits can be sanded to roughen the surface, then painted over. Conventional solvent-based paints should not be applied on new buildings where these can often occur, for at least 12 months, to allow the surface time to dry out thoroughly. Use a reputable primer prior to applying any solvent-based finishes.

When an under-surface shows through a painted surface, it is said to be “grinning through”. This can happen when a paint fails to completely cover the under-surface, or when an incorrect undercoat has been used for a gloss system. To correct the grinning, thoroughly clean down the surfaces to remove all dirt, grease and surface contaminants, rub down with a suitable abrasive, dust off and repaint.

Surfaces where the colour has faded due to exposure from ultraviolet sunlight should be thoroughly cleaned down to remove all dirt, grease and surface contaminants. Then rub down with a suitable abrasive, dust off and paint over. Weathered woodwork previously coated with a wood stain or varnish should be thoroughly prepared to remove all denatured timber prior to redecoration.

There’s only one way to remove depressions or surface blemishes caused by rain spotting. Clean down the surfaces to remove all dirt, grease and surface contaminants. Then rub down the surfaces with Wet & Dry abrasion, using water or a suitable solvent. Finally, rinse down and allow to dry thoroughly before applying a new coat of paint.

A paint film that has dried in this condition is mechanically weak and needs to be completely removed. Carefully clean down the surfaces and allow it to dry before reapplying paint.

Condensation forming on the surface soon after application can take the gloss of new paintwork. This can be caused by painting in cold, damp conditions or painting outside when rain or frost are imminent (typical Gippsland winter conditions). Porous under-surfaces can also absorb gloss and make it appear dull. To remedy, lightly abrade the surface and apply a further finishing coat of paint when conditions are more favourable.

The paint can’t adhere to the surface because of contamination by oil, grease, wax or polish. So the paint draws back, leaving unpainted areas, usually in the form of small spots. To remedy the situation, if the paint is still wet, wash it all off, allow the surface to dry and thoroughly harden, then rub it down using wet and dry abrasive paper (or waterproof silicon carbide) and warm water with a bit of detergent. Rinse the surface thoroughly and allow it to dry before repainting.

This wrinkling effect can occur when paint dries too quickly, forming a surface skin before the paint underneath can dry properly. Overcoating a previous undercoat or gloss too soon can also cause this problem, as can applying oil-based coatings too quickly at low temperatures. Before attempting to smooth out the wrinkles, allow the surface to dry and harden, then rub down using wet and dry abrasive paper with warm water and detergent. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and allow it to dry before repainting. If still wet/soft then scrape off and if this is extensive, strip all off.

There are a number of causes but the main ones are:

1. Certain types of sand used in the construction or rendering of a building can cause staining, as can certain kinds of brick hollow clay pots or clinker blocks containing soluble salts. Pieces of ferrous metal or iron stone embedded in the material can rust and discolour when the surface is painted. These problems can be treated by sealing the affected areas with good primer, one that resists alkaline.
2. Rust staining can occur where old nails are left in the substrate, or a wire brush has been used to prepare the surface. In this case, prime those areas with a good metal primer.
3. Steel reinforcing in concrete may be too close to the surface and cause rusting. The only effective way to resolve this problem is to get back to the metal itself and treat the cause of the rust then make any necessary repairs to the surface and repaint.

We would recommend a complete strip of the varnish before applying a conventional paint system over previously painted varnish, however wood stain can be painted over without stripping.

Many hardwoods such as Oak and Teak, are naturally durable and have their own natural resistance to decay and rot. Most softwoods and “cheaper” hardwoods are not durable and must be treated with a preservative if they are to be used outside. Some of these timbers are treated in the factory to stop them rotting, but if this has not been done use a reputable pre-treatment.

Shade cards and colour labels should only be used as a guide. The following factors will all affect the final colour:

• The natural colour of the wood and any existing coating.
• The texture and absorption of the surface.
• The way the products are applied

On average, every litre of woodstain will give two coats, indoors and out, on two partly glazed doors or four windows.

Although timber is a porous, absorbent substrate, it will not “soak” water up like a sponge and therefore although the surface may be wet, the main body of the timber is likely to be dry. While it is difficult to be precise, two good drying days should be adequate. If rainfall has been for a longer period, as much as one week or more of dry weather may be necessary for the moisture content of the timber to reach an acceptable level.

With solvent-based paints, it’s usually surface contamination as the result of a poorly prepared surface. Water-based paints can be slow to dry in damp, cold conditions, or when applied to timbers that are oily by nature, such as teak. Wet solvent-based paint may be removed using cloths soaked in Mineral turpentine. If this is unsuccessful, completely remove the coating using a hot air gun or a suitable chemical-based remover. To remove slow-drying water-based paints, simply wash off with warm water and detergent solution.

Any reputable varnish would be suitable, as long as any water spillage is cleaned up straight away and not allowed to pool.

Paint applied over varnish or some wood stains can sometimes cause chipping if knocked. Varnishes are very hard films and adhesion to these surfaces is difficult. Should this happen, you’ll first need to thoroughly clean down the surfaces to remove all dirt, grease and surface contaminants. Then carefully scrape back poorly adhering or defective paint to a firm edge and rub down to “feather” broken edges. If chipping is severe, the surface will need to be totally stripped back. Dust off prior to repainting.

Yes, we do repairs for Graco Equipment in our warehouse plus we use our partner companies to do repairs across Australia. We are an authorized Graco Service Agent and authorized Graco Distributor

Yes we stock the full range of Abrasiflex Abrasives, for more information on call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of ABSS Abrasives, for more information on call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of Anest Iwata Equipment, for more information call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of Aristospray Equipment. We are also an Aristospray Service & Repair Agent. For more information call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of Blast One Abrasives, for more information on call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of DNA Custom Paints Automotive Products, for more information on call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of Graco Equipment, for more information call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of Haymes Paints, for more information on Haymes Paints call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of Jotun powder protective coatings, for more information on call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of Jotun protective coatings, for more information on call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of Mirotone Products, for more information on call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of Norglass Automotive Products, for more information on call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of Nutech products, for more information on call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of Pan Blast Abrasives, for more information on call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of Raptor Products, for more information on call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of RPB Safety Equipment, for more information call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of Sterling Equipment, for more information call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of Titan Equipment, and we are also an authorized Titan Service & Repair Agent. For more information call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of U-Pol Automotive Products, for more information on call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of Wagner Equipment, for more information call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of Wagon Automotive Products, for more information you can call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of Wanda Automotive Products, for more information on call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

Yes we stock the full range of Your Safety Factory Safety Equipment, for more information call us on 03 5176 1442 or email sales@traralgonpaints.com.au

We re building a state of the art online ordering system. In the meantime Traralgon Paint Trade Customers are encouraged to place orders over the phone. Call 5176 1442

Unfortunately, No. Proof of purchase is required when returning any item.

Anyone can shop with us. We do offer specialist services for trade customers, but you don’t need to be a tradesperson to shop with us.

Yes

Refunds are offered on unused products in their original packaging. A receipt as proof of purchase is required to be presented at the time of return. Refunds are only payable to the original form of payment. Unfortunately any paint product that has been tinted or personalised for a customer is ineligible for a refund. Please call 5176 1442 if you have any further questions. More information can also be found on our Returns & Refunds Policy page.

All enquiries regarding faulty items should be directed to 5176 1442. For further information please see our Returns & Refunds Policy.

Yes. Traralgon Paints offers delivery. Please contact us on 5176 1442 for delivery times and costs.

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We accept cash, EFTPOS, Debit Cards and Visa.

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